
It was a masochistic brand of family bonding: Smooshed behind the pastry case, we endured the morning latte rush, the lunchtime sandwich panic and the late-afternoon queue of sweet tooths and coffee seekers. For me, “Bob’s Burgers” evokes all the nostalgia and terror my Korean immigrant parents and brother and I felt running a short-lived café in Tacoma, Washington.

It’s a funny take on the mom-and-pop store - the kind of business that small-town whites and new immigrants have banked on since the early 20th century - and the unpaid family labor that makes it possible.Īnyone who’s worked in a family store should be watching this show. Jon Benjamin), his wife, Linda (John Roberts), and their kids, Tina (Dan Mintz), Gene (Eugene Mirman) and Louise (Kristen Schaal), there is no division between work at the burger shop and life upstairs in their one-bathroom rental. Yet the accolades to date have missed a central truth: “Bob’s Burgers,” for all its animated silliness, is the most astute portrait of a working-class household since “Roseanne” and the first to show the complexities of running a small family business. Fans love the show’s brisk wit and clean animation (big eyes, bright colors, minimal shadow) and, in thousands of Tweets and online comments, celebrate its wordplay: Each episode includes at least one pun-ny burger special (e.g., the “Chorizo your own adventure burger”) and an ever-changing marquee on the storefront next door - from the Scroto Rooter vasectomy clinic to the Cane You Dig It? candy cane outlet.

In its four seasons to date - the fifth begins Sunday night - this comedy about an offbeat nuclear family and its unprofitable, small-town burger shop has charmed millions of viewers and garnered high praise. Just three days after the Entertainment Weekly announcement, “Bob’s Burgers,” leading with the bat mitzvah-inspired episode, “Mazel-Tina,” won an Emmy for Outstanding Animated Program. The best-character poll proved the admiration of Tina's fans, including this author, but critics love her show just as much.

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The winner was Tina Belcher, the gawky 13-year-old known for her endearing naivete and hormone-fueled fantasies on the Fox cartoon series “Bob’s Burgers.” It was quite the feat for a two-dimensional girl - beating Benedict Cumberbatch’s Sherlock Holmes and Arya Stark from “Game of Thrones.”
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“Who’s the best character on TV right now?” it asked in August, eliciting 75,000 votes. With a few weeks to go before the season premieres, Entertainment Weekly took a nonscientific, high-stakes Internet poll.
